HYDRATION & MOISTURISERS
Hydration is often misunderstood as something only dry skin needs. In reality, all skin types rely on adequate hydration to function normally. When skin is under-hydrated, it tends to become more reactive, slower to heal, and more prone to inflammation or rebound oil production.
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A moisturiser is not simply about “adding moisture”. Its role is to reduce ongoing water loss and create conditions where the skin can behave more predictably. Skin that is adequately hydrated tolerates active ingredients better, recovers more effectively between treatments, and is less likely to become irritated by otherwise appropriate skincare.
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When hydration is overlooked, even well-chosen products are more likely to cause irritation than improvement.
Different Types of Moisturisers
Not all moisturisers work the same way. Formulation matters far more than texture or marketing claims.
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Moisturisers may include:
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Humectants, which draw water into the skin
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Emollients, which smooth and soften the skin surface
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Occlusives, which reduce moisture loss
Many modern moisturisers combine these functions to support barrier health without feeling heavy or greasy. The right balance depends on skin type, environment, and what other products or treatments are being used.
Moisturisers With Active Ingredients
Some moisturisers also contain active ingredients designed to address specific concerns.
These may include:
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Antioxidants, which help reduce oxidative stress from pollution and UV exposure
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Vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives, which can support brightness and collagen function when well formulated
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Brightening ingredients, which may help regulate pigment production over time
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Barrier-supporting ingredients, which improve tolerance and reduce sensitivity
While these ingredients can be beneficial, concentration, formulation stability, and skin tolerance matter. Adding too many actives at once, even when delivered through moisturisers, can undermine skin health rather than support it.
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For this reason, moisturisers with actives are best selected in the context of the overall routine, not layered indiscriminately.
What Moisturisers Can and Cannot Do
Moisturisers are highly effective at supporting the skin barrier and reducing water loss. This improves comfort, tolerance, and overall skin behaviour.
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However, moisturisers do not:
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Permanently change skin type
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Replace the need for active treatments when those are indicated
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Correct structural skin concerns on their own
Their role is foundational. By improving barrier function and hydration, moisturisers allow other treatments and active ingredients to work more predictably and with fewer side effects.
Hydration, Skin Barrier, and Evidence
There is strong evidence that a well-functioning skin barrier is central to:
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Reduced sensitivity
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More predictable responses to treatment
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Improved tolerance of active ingredients
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Better long-term skin outcomes
Hydration is central to normal skin function. When water loss from the skin increases, barrier integrity declines, a relationship outlined by Elias in his 2005 review published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. This leads to higher irritation, slower healing, and exaggerated responses to otherwise well-tolerated products.
In this state, even carefully selected skincare is more likely to cause discomfort than improvement. Restoring hydration improves barrier performance first. Visible skin improvements typically follow.
Tailoring Moisturiser Choice
There is no single “best” moisturiser, because skin needs are not fixed. The most appropriate choice depends on how the skin behaves, what it is exposed to, and what else is being used alongside it.
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Key factors include:
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Skin type and sensitivity, including how reactive the skin is day to day
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Climate and seasonal changes, such as colder, drier winters or humid summer conditions
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Other active ingredients in use, including retinoids, exfoliating acids, or pigment-targeting treatments
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Whether the skin is undergoing in-clinic treatment, which can temporarily alter hydration needs
A moisturiser that works well during winter may feel insufficient in summer. A formulation that suits untreated skin may be too heavy, too light, or poorly tolerated once actives are introduced. This is a common reason people feel that a product has “stopped working”, when in reality the skin’s needs have changed.
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Hydration also plays a role in how well other skincare performs. Skin that is adequately supported tends to tolerate active ingredients more comfortably, recover more predictably, and show steadier improvement over time. When hydration is lacking, irritation increases and progress often stalls, even when actives are otherwise well chosen.
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For this reason, moisturiser choice should be reviewed as the skin evolves. Hydration is not a static step in a routine. It is something that should be adjusted as skin behaviour, treatments, and external conditions change.
The goal is not to constantly switch products, but to ensure the level of support matches what the skin actually needs at that point in time.
Why a Moisturiser Can Feel Like It “Stops Working”
Many people feel that a moisturiser works well initially, then suddenly feels ineffective. This is usually not because the product has failed, but because the skin’s needs have changed.
Common reasons include:
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Seasonal shifts that increase water loss
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Introduction of active ingredients such as retinoids or exfoliating acids
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Changes in cleansing habits that strip natural oils
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Increased environmental stress such as wind, air conditioning, or heating
When these factors change, the level of barrier support required also changes. If hydration is not adjusted, the skin may feel tight, reactive, or oily despite using the same product consistently.
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This is why hydration should be reviewed periodically rather than treated as a fixed step.
How Often Should a Moisturiser Be Used
For most skin types, moisturiser is best applied:
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After cleansing and application of an active serum (if using)
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Ideally twice daily as part of a usual skincare routine depending on environment and treatments
Frequency should increase during:
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Cold or dry weather
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Active treatment phases
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Periods of irritation or barrier disruption
Using more product is not always better. The goal is even coverage and regular use rather than heavy application.
How We Approach Hydration at ALLOR
At ALLOR, moisturisers are selected to support skin function first, not trends or marketing claims.
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We focus on:
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Formulations with evidence-based ingredients
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Products that integrate well with active treatments
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Supporting skin comfort, tolerance, and predictability
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Adjusting hydration as the skin evolves
The goal is skin that feels comfortable, behaves consistently, and can tolerate both daily skincare and in-clinic treatments over time.
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Hydration is not about doing more. It is about giving the skin what it needs to function well.
